Too much Tung

[speared um]

Thanx, Niner I agree with you as far as keeping the origional mitilary finish. Do older Mil surps develope a plantina on the metal and the wood.





I've heared that a few coats of split shalic will keep the cosmo inprisioned in the deaper stock, but can the schalic and the oil finish interact?


Do you think the shalic is unnessary... good?


Coarse sanding is bad, but 0000 steal wool use is OK?





Thanx Dante'

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[Niner]

Old firearms look old. I don't know if I would call it patina or not. Certainly the aging process is there in the wood and on the metal. I think most of us would rather that most that aging process evidence remain.





I am not sure exactly what shellac is. The dictionary says that Shellac is a varnish made from Lac. Lac is a resinous deposit left on certain trees by the Indian Lac insect and used in making varnishes. Now that is mysterious enough in itself.





Once upon a time Homer Formby used to be on TV telling how to refinish stuff. He was the refinish version of the bass fisherman's Bill Dance. You couldn't turn the TV on without him being there. But every once in a while I was interested. One thing he did do was strain varnish through a stocking an then add some mineral spirits or paint thinner afterwards. Then he used to use just the palm of his hand to rub the concoction into the table or whatever it was he was finishing. I tried it on some furniture and it worked good and left a smooth finish when you were done.... but that was furniture.





Tung oil is best. Formbys low gloss tung oil finish with varnish is fast and I have used it when I couldn't get the real thing and will continue to do so.





To further answer your question. I don't think anything can trap cosmo in a stock on a hot day.

<p></p><i>Edited by: <A HREF=http://pub4.ezboard.com/bmilsurpafterho ... s>Niner</A>  http://members.aol.com/x9eralpha/65.jpg[/pic] at: 5/21/03 7:28:22 pm

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[dcarson]

Try this for a really smooth finish. Use a small piece (about one inch square) of 1200 - 2000 grit wet dry sand paper and use that to rub the oil or mixture into the stock. The small wood dust from the sandpaper will actually mixes with the oil and helps fill in the small pores of the wood and give an ultra smooth finish. This is how I finish the stocks on custom rifles that are pretty much just for show.

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[ajcarey]

long live Monica never received this complaint buryl ; g

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[dromia]

Hey AJ





your on a roll this weather, had some good news or is just your natural effervesence?

<p>http://www.hunt101.com/img/055266.gif"/><!--EZCODE IMAGE END-->





Adam.





Why don't you visit .

[speared um]

Do your stocks have a glosey finish?





I put Formsby's TOF on my 98/22 and M39 with a war time Sako stock using my hands. The 98/22 dried fast, but the M39 took over 24 hours to dry. I did not wipe it off after the applacation of the oil.





I applied a second coat yestardy, and the 98/22 is dry, but the M39 is still a little sticky. It's been ~12 hours, and we're having a coastal eddy and there's humidity in the air. Should I use 0000 SW after every coat dries, or just the last coat?





thanx Dante'


long live your d. carson or d.c. arson Buryl? ;)

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[dromia]

Why don't you stop arson around Buryl and take the Russian approach. Lightly buff with a heavy duty angle grinder and finish with few coats of ashphalt thinned with creosote. ; ;

<p>http://www.hunt101.com/img/055266.gif"/><!--EZCODE IMAGE END-->





Adam.





Why don't you visit .

[speared um]

Is that with a twist! ;





Dante'


long live hoppe's #9 limit is .15 bal Buryl

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[dromia]

Nope just a dash of 20/40 bitters methinks. <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :b --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/tongue.gif ALT=":b">;

<p>http://www.hunt101.com/img/055266.gif"/><!--EZCODE IMAGE END-->





Adam.





Why don't you visit .

[speared um]

"Anastroga, I presume!"





Dante'


long live quinine is for gin Buryl ;)

<p></p><i>Edited by: <A HREF=http://pub4.ezboard.com/bmilsurpafterho ... um>speared um</A> at: 9/16/03 11:53 pm

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