Removing rust scale
Moderator: Aughnanure
Removing rust scale
I suppose we have all gotten a rifle with little raised freckles of rust on the barrel, or patches of raised rusty scale below the wood line. These hide pitting of one degree or another. If the scale (iron oxide) is not removed it will engourage further pitting as it is hydrotropic. Steel wool is not ideal as it also works at the surrounding blueing. Small scrapers cut from copper sheet remove this scale without damage to the blue. When the sharp edge of the copper scraper becomes dull just trim with sharp shears. Any copper streaks leff on the metal wipe off with Hoppes #9.
MM
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MM
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Re: Removing rust scale
Just for future reference I've used a product called Flitz that works quite well. It's a cream-like substance from a toothpaste-like tube. I purchased mine from a Ace Hardware store. A small tube will likely last a lifetime...very little goes a long ways. I still have my original firearm, a Fox .410 pump shotgun, that my Dad bought me in the late 1950's. It was handed down to my brother when he came of age, and has the dreaded 'pepper rust' on the barrel & receiver. One application of Flitz annually keeps it in check.
<p>wh12725
LECS 03C1016
<p>wh12725
LECS 03C1016
wh12725
LECS 03C1016
LECS 03C1016
Re: Removing rust scale
Another thing that has worked for me is KROIL. Apply this with a saturated swab for a couple of days, the gently scrape at the rust with a cartridge case with the neck flattened. When the case dulls just sharpen it with a file. Then work the area with #0000 brass wool or steel wool. Just be very gentle, you don't want to rub real hard or you will affect the remaining blue.
Rebel49
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Rebel49
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You could also try brake fluid. This is only good for light surface rust where you don't want to remove the blueing/finish. It should be used neat and rubbed onto the rust surface and wiped away using a cloth. As with anything that's aggresive make sure the metal is then degreased/de-oiled and clean of any remaining brake fluid and then gun-oiled.
Remember it's also corrosive to flesh with prolonged use so wear gloves and wash hands afterwards
Remember it's also corrosive to flesh with prolonged use so wear gloves and wash hands afterwards
Brake fluid?
I had never heard of that before. I'll have to give it a try next time I have a situation as discribed. Thanks for the tip.
Last edited by Niner on Tue Feb 14, 2006 8:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- Aughnanure
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There is also the pains-taking but very sure way of using a sewing needle.
Dig out the rust and just oil and keep at it until all the rust is gone. This is the go on fine antique guns.
One word of warning, from personal experience, buy your own needles; women can never understand the imperatives of gun work
Eoin.
Dig out the rust and just oil and keep at it until all the rust is gone. This is the go on fine antique guns.
One word of warning, from personal experience, buy your own needles; women can never understand the imperatives of gun work
Eoin.
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- Posts: 25
- Joined: Wed Mar 01, 2006 3:31 am
Rust removers
OK here is my two cents worth. Iosso bore cleaner. You can use this on patch supported by a mandrel load up the patch with iosso and start scrubbing out the bbl. Remove the patch then put on a worn bore brush.saturate patch with iosso. Then proceed to rub the patch with the iosso up and down the bore for at least twenty strokes.The bore brush helps to support the iosso laden patch AND THIS DOES WORK.. I have seen scratchy bbls go through this routine and have them really clean up. THen clean bbl as you normally would. Kerosene is used as a soak for bbls that have rust in then, I've seen rusty bullet mold cavaties come out almost rust free. A little polishing and the mold was making very usable bullets. Kroil is another product that attacks rust. In some bad cases Naval Jelly cal also be used to remove rust. But it leaves the surface with a greyish cast. and must be quickly lubricated or the rust satrts over again. Frank .