Too much Tung

[speared um]

Stole this from hr225





Went on a quest today for re-finishing supplies, and although I found bowling alley wax in Home Depot, I was dissapointed in thier finish supplies. The Tung Oil they had


was from Minwax, and from Formby's and the both are a "Tung Oil Finish"....Tung oil, varnish, etc. In other words, not what I wanted.


I then went to Woodworker's Warehouse and found 100% Pure Tung Oil (Master's Blend) in a quart container(smallest they had) for $19.99. Now, I didn't want to spend that much, but I figured as long as it works, no big deal.


Took it home and applied a light coat with a foam brush on my freshly cleaned VZ24 stock, and the stuff is awesome! I probably used only about a tablespoon worth of oil for the entire stock and upper forearm.





The quart should be enough for at least 50 stocks





(guess I will have to up my collection ) ....Can't wait!





thanx Dante'





long live hr225 buryl ;

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[Niner]

You know you have to wipe it down don't you? And after it sits a while it all soaks in and you will have to put on a few more coats. To do it right you may have to put on a coat and rub it down every day or two for six or eight coats. And use some 0000 steel wool on it too.

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[HoosierDaddy]

I like to buff the tung oil off with a pair of my wife's old panty hose.

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[speared um]

HOOSIERDADDYHOOSIERDADDYHOOSIERDADDYHOOSIERDADDYHOOSIERDADDY





thanx HooserDaddy:


another member of M' Buryl Rangers ;

<p></p><i>Edited by: <A HREF=http://pub4.ezboard.com/bmilsurpafterho ... s>Niner</A>  http://members.aol.com/x9eralpha/65.jpg[/pic] at: 3/31/03 9:25:27 pm

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[Iberian48]

I bought a Russian M91/44 dated 1948 when they frist came in the country around Christmas 94. The barreled actin is in like new condition but the stock leaves lots to be desired.





Since it was the first in my collection I want to refinish the stock. I stripped the old red varnish off the stock and hand gaurd with some acetone. I bought some tong oil and now after reading these posts could you tell me what are the next steps to finish.





Iberian48





Thanks because I am new to the stock refinishing part.















































i

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[Niner]

Well, I've used both plain tung oil and, when I couldn't find it, some of Formby's tung oil mixture with a little varnish in it.





First smooth the stock out with real fine sand paper and 0000 steel wool, without ruining any of the gun marks. When you have it smooth enough, use a small scrap of cloth, like from an old T shirt, and rub the tung oil into the stock. The stock should soak it up like a sponge at first. I have also just wiped the tung oil in with my bare hand as this works good. Let the rifle stand for thirty minutes or so then rub it down with a clean lint free cloth. Someone suggested, and this is the best way, use some old stockings that your wife may let you have to rub the stock down. This does work good and moves easily over what will be a a kind of tacky feeling surface after the tung has dried a while. Once you have it wiped down let it rest for a day and repeat the proceedure. This may take a half dozen or more applications before you get the stock like you want it. The only thing the Formby's has over the regular tung oil is that with the varnish in it fewer coats are required. I usually buff lightly between coats with 0000 steel wool too.

<p></p><i>Edited by: <A HREF=http://pub4.ezboard.com/bmilsurpafterho ... s>Niner</A>  http://members.aol.com/x9eralpha/65.jpg[/pic] at: 4/22/03 1:36:58 pm

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[pyro1711]

I take the tung oil and put it inside of the small section of an old spray paint can cap, then I put about 2 teaspoons of japan dryer in and swish it around to mix it. I wet my finger tips with the mixture and hand work it into the stock. Whats nice is the japan dryer causes it to dry faster and you can actually do 2 or 3 coats of tung oil in one day.





Give it a try and see if you like it.







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[m1 talker]

Pyro- good information, but what actually is a good ratio of Japan Dryer to Tung Oil. I don't have any spray paint can lids to mix it in. Also, does Japan Dryer work with boiled linseed oil as well?


Curt

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[speared um]

Niner, what does the varnish do the the stock? Does it penetrate into the wood and block other applacations of finish? Can you apply Tung oil finish over old finish, or do you have to strip all of the old from the wood?





How does a Tung Oil Finish react with the old cosmo in the wood, and will cosmo seaping out of the stock ruin the finish?


How many coats are needed of Tung Oil Finish?





thanx Dante'





long live finish buryl ;

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[Niner]

The thing that varnish does, as I see it, is that since it is thicker than tung oil and dries harder, you get a "finish" a lot quicker. That is one thing Formby's Tung Oil Finish will do for you. But varnish by itself does not penetrate as deep in my estimation and the surface feel of the wood is not as smooth.





I don't "strip" any of my rifle stocks. That takes some of the history out of them. I want them to look better, but not new. That is just my opinion of it of course. I just rub the old rough surface down with 0000 steel wool or if need be, like the M48 or Yugo SKS, with a very fine sand paper before I start apply the Tung Oil.





You want to get as much of the cosmo out of the stock as you can before you apply finish. However, that is just about impossible to do. But don't worry about it. After a brisk shooting secession and the cosmo starts to the surface, just wipe it off. It doesn't hurt the finish.





As to how many coats of Tung Oil, that is up to you. There is no set number just as all stocks absorb the oil differently depending on the kind of wood, how dry it is to start with, etc.

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