Milsurp After Hours

Duncan, I use a stuff called "Leinölfirnis" in German,

the americans say BLO to it, boiled linseed oil.

Be sure to remove all the varnish with alcohol and than use thinned BLO(use turpentine to thinn the BLO.

Another well proofen stuff is a 1/3 mix of BLO, turpentine and bees wax.

Just wipe in a very thin coat of il everytime, let dry and repaet until you are satisfied.

Not o much a a time, because is gets sticky than!!!!!!!!

I finaly use a wood polish with bees wax, seals the stock good against moisture.

Chris,

Vielen Dank für die Information.

What do you think.

Should I keep the stock like this and accept the fact that it has one or two less good looking spots on it

I mean....if the varnish is original.

The rifle was manufactured in 1940 and does show some scars.

I even like that on my Mosin Nagants

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/1003/ ... ing002.jpg[/pic]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/1003/ ... G_0351.jpg[/pic]

Met vriendelijke groet,

Martin

The bench loader is mounted on a piece of French Barrel Oak. It has 2 thinned and 6 full coats of oil.

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f392/ ... 596WEB.jpg[/pic]

Duncan I have done a few rifle stocks over the years with boiled linseed oil, and I have always been happy with them. As always very little goes a long way. I would like a go with that BP revolver of yours!!!

I would like a go with that BP revolver of yours!!!

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f392/ ... olent5.gif[/pic]!!

Martin, leave the SVT as it is, with one exception, remove the wood plugs from the venting holes in the handguard.

This was done to the rifle to be legal under old german gunlaw, but now this it not nessesarry, because all semiautomatic rifles befor 1945 are no more considdered weapons of war.

I've been thinking about removing the wood plugs.

What's the best/easiest way to do that Chris

I also will replace the muzzle extension.

Because of the KWKG they removed the bayonet lug.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/1003/ ... G_0480.jpg[/pic]

Met vriendelijke groet,

Martin

I would use a Dremel with a small end mill bit.

Te older muzzle break(6 slots) looks much nicer to me.

I have just used a varnish remover and a tooth brush and then cleaned it off with water. It is now drying overnight.

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f392/ ... ILSURP.jpg[/pic]

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f392/ ... ILSURP.jpg[/pic]

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f392/ ... OPTEST.jpg[/pic]

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f392/ ... ILSURP.jpg[/pic]

The beer bottles contain Linseed Oil.............OK

The forend top piece has already been stripped and has had 2 diluted and 4 full coats of oil.

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f392/ ... ILSURP.jpg[/pic]

The beer bottles contain Linseed Oil.............OK

Sure Duncan, I believe you. Many others wouldn't, but I do.

Rifle looks good so far - now for the rest of the coats -

once a day for a week

once a week for a month,

once a month for a year,

once a year for life