1926 Lithgow, SMLE III
Moderator: joseyclosey
- Aughnanure
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- Joined: Wed Jun 22, 2005 5:59 am
- Location: Glen Innes, NSW, Australia
Mozak,
The pins are 2 pieces of screwed brass wire which go into the forend from the top for about !" on the rhs of the forend to strengthen it against cracking. Sometimes also seen on the lhs in the same position. They go in parallel to the vertical axis of the rifle.
I just measured a 4/nd and the posn. is approx 0.170" in from the inletting (ref. prev. pic.) 0.660" and 1.167" from the rere face.
Fractions would have done but I had the calipers handy
Re. the recoil plates they're those two copper bits screwed into the 4/nd.
Fitting is tricky and the angle of the recoil lugs must be maintained . When fitted the forend should be a good hard push fit with good contact on the plates and make sure that there is no gap between the back of the 4/nd and the front face of the butt socket.
Any gaps can cause the wood to hammer out under recoil.
The plate in the back of the 4/nd is the 'Plate,keeper, bolt stock'
and if you don't want to keep the rifle absolutely original can be thrown away and replaced with a bit of good wood glued in in place of it.
Then cut the end off the stock bolt so that it doesn't foul the wood.
The keeper plate was a diabolical device designed for the unwary to destroy forends when they went to tighten a loose butt.
Eoin.
The pins are 2 pieces of screwed brass wire which go into the forend from the top for about !" on the rhs of the forend to strengthen it against cracking. Sometimes also seen on the lhs in the same position. They go in parallel to the vertical axis of the rifle.
I just measured a 4/nd and the posn. is approx 0.170" in from the inletting (ref. prev. pic.) 0.660" and 1.167" from the rere face.
Fractions would have done but I had the calipers handy

Re. the recoil plates they're those two copper bits screwed into the 4/nd.
Fitting is tricky and the angle of the recoil lugs must be maintained . When fitted the forend should be a good hard push fit with good contact on the plates and make sure that there is no gap between the back of the 4/nd and the front face of the butt socket.
Any gaps can cause the wood to hammer out under recoil.
The plate in the back of the 4/nd is the 'Plate,keeper, bolt stock'
and if you don't want to keep the rifle absolutely original can be thrown away and replaced with a bit of good wood glued in in place of it.
Then cut the end off the stock bolt so that it doesn't foul the wood.
The keeper plate was a diabolical device designed for the unwary to destroy forends when they went to tighten a loose butt.
Eoin.
- mozark
- Contributing Member
- Posts: 102
- Joined: Fri Jun 24, 2005 4:08 pm
- Location: Mon. Nat'l Forest, WV
Thanks, Eoin
I just received Strattons book on the No.1, and in it he states that the recoil plates were developed by the Aussies to combat the poor qualities of Coachwood. Are the recoil plates necessary on forends of wood other than Coachwood? The forend I've fit to this rifle is marked with the E within D cypher of RSAF Enfield, and is walnut.
I've allready removed the squared end of the stock bolt. Truely a "diabolical" device to trap the unwary.
MM
I've allready removed the squared end of the stock bolt. Truely a "diabolical" device to trap the unwary.
MM
- Aughnanure
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Mozark,
No problems with walnut. The only ones I've ever seen with the plates fitted were done by someone who was over zealous and hadn't read the instructions properly
One of my favourite rifles is a 1917 BSA and it still has it's original walnut and has seen some hard service, including a stint in India where it didn't get an Isshy screw
Eoin.
No problems with walnut. The only ones I've ever seen with the plates fitted were done by someone who was over zealous and hadn't read the instructions properly

One of my favourite rifles is a 1917 BSA and it still has it's original walnut and has seen some hard service, including a stint in India where it didn't get an Isshy screw


Eoin.